What to Know Before You Try Popular Hair Products for Alopecia
Alopecia areata is a type of autoimmune disorder that occurs when the body’s immune system attacks the hair follicles, leading to hair loss.
Various new hair loss products are available — whether over-the-counter, by prescription, or even as subscription services. Depending on the product, it may claim to help you:
- Retain natural hair
- Disguise thinning hair
- Implant and regrow hair or hair alternatives
Many of these options may be enticing if you have a condition like alopecia. But, before you rush to try one of these products, consult with a dermatologist to develop an appropriate individualized treatment plan, says Dina D. Strachan, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor in the department of dermatology at New York University and director at Aglow Dermatology in New York City.
“There are many treatments for hair loss, but these are diagnosis-dependent,” Dr. Strachan says. “Get a diagnosis first, then seek to treat.”
This is especially important with alopecia, as there’s more than one type and level of severity for this condition, none of which respond equally to treatment. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, there are three main types of autoimmune alopecia:
- Alopecia areata, the most common type, which can lead to patchy hair loss anywhere on the body, including your scalp, eyebrows, and eyelashes
- Alopecia totalis, which leads to total baldness on the scalp
- Alopecia universalis, the rarest type, which results in full-body baldness
The prognosis can vary from type to type. Some people may be able to regrow hair without condition recurrence, while others may experience permanent hair loss across their entire body.
Hair Regrowth Products
One popular and potential option is minoxidil (Rogaine), often combined with a short course of hair supplements, Strachan says.
However, “topical minoxidil can help in some cases of minimal alopecia areata, but if there’s active inflammation, it’s unlikely to make a considerable difference,” adds Lindsey Bordone, MD, a dermatologist who specializes in hair loss at ColumbiaDoctors and is an assistant professor of dermatology at Columbia University Irving Medical Center in New York City.
In the case of androgenetic alopecia (which is not autoimmune related and more commonly known as pattern baldness) without severe hair loss, research shows 5 percent minoxidil has been shown to improve density and hair shaft diameter.
“It is best to use it early to preserve the hairs growing on the scalp, [because if] hairs have miniaturized, minoxidil may help to restore some features of the hair before it was as thin and fine,” explains Dr. Bordone.
When it comes to hair loss in other areas, Bordon notes: “Minoxidil does help to improve facial hair growth when applied consistently to the beard area. It can also help eyebrow growth, but great care would need to be taken to avoid getting minoxidil in the eye. Use along the eyelashes is strongly discouraged.”
At the same time, there is some risk of excessive hair growth on the forehead and sideburn area due to minoxidil applied to the scalp, Bordone adds.
“If facial hair becomes excessive, and this is sometimes problematic in women, the minoxidil would need to be discontinued,” she says. “If hair growth persisted beyond six months after discontinuation, then laser hair removal or other treatments to reduce hair would likely be needed.”
Hair Implants
While it can be tempting to many, both Bordone and Strachan caution against seeking out implant treatments for alopecia.
“Implanted hair that isn’t done through a transplant is not an FDA [U.S. Food and Drug Administration] approved treatment,” Bordone explains. “Most claims made for hair regrowth are false. The only studies showing over-the-counter improvement in growth that have significant scientific support involve the use of minoxidil.”
